When it comes to hair texture, the Black community is incredibly diverse. While curly hair is common among those of African descent, not all Black individuals have naturally curly locks. Straight, wavy, and tightly coiled hair textures can all occur.
In this article, we’ll explore the range of natural hair types seen in Black people and what influences hair shape and curl pattern.
The Genetics of Black Hair
Genetics play a major role in determining hair texture and curl pattern. Research has uncovered variants in certain genes that contribute to the tight coils and curls typical of African hair:
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EDAR Gene – This gene helps direct growth and development of hair follicles. A particular mutation around 65,000 years ago led to the thick, straight hair common in East Asians. The ancestral version of this gene is associated with tightly coiled hair.
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TCHH Gene – This codes for a protein called trichohyalin involved in structuring the hair shaft. Variants in this gene explain some of the curl pattern diversity seen among different populations.
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FGFR2 Gene – Changes in this gene can lead to enhanced hair follicle growth, resulting in thicker, straighter hair. The ancestral variant is linked to tightly curled Afro-textured hair.
Overall, research indicates that tightly coiled and kinky hair is the original hair texture in early human populations. As groups migrated out of Africa into Asia and Europe, changes in these genes gave rise to straighter, wavier hair textures.
However, diversity still exists within the African gene pool. This means variation in hair curl and coil pattern is possible among modern Black individuals depending on their ancestry.
Range of Natural Hair Textures in Black People
When using the term “Black” or “African American,” we’re generally referring to people of African descent and the African diaspora. This encompasses a diverse range of cultures, languages, and genetics.
As a result, a spectrum of natural hair types can occur:
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Tightly Coiled – This kinky, Afro-textured hair has tight zig-zag shaped curls and coils. It’s the most common hair type for those of direct West African descent.
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Big Curls – Loopy S-shaped curls that are slightly elongated but still tightly wound. More common among East Africans.
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Loose Curls – Wavier curls that form loose spirals and ringlets. Seen in North and East Africans.
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Wavy – Flowy S-waves with a lower density of curls. Found among many North Africans.
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Straight – Bone straight hair with no curl at all. Occurs in some East Africans and also through mixing with other ancestries.
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Combination – Different textures on different parts of the head, like tight coils up top and looser curls in the back.
As you can see, coiled and tightly curled hair is not universal for all Black people. Other factors like African region of origin, percentage of African ancestry, and mixing with other ethnicities can influence hair shape.
Influences on Natural Hair Texture
Genetics are the primary driver of hair texture. But other factors can also affect curl pattern:
Ethnicity & Region of Origin
- Tightly coiled hair: Common among West and Central Africans
- Big curly ringlets: More common among East Africans like Ethiopians
- Loose waves & curls: Typical of North Africans and Horn of Africans
Percentage of African Ancestry
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The more direct African ancestry someone has, the more likely they are to have highly textured, coiled hair.
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Those with a smaller percentage of African origin may exhibit looser curl patterns.
Admixture with Other Ethnicities
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Mixing with European or Native American ancestry can contribute looser curl variations.
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Asian ancestry may contribute a straighter, thicker hair texture.
Age
- Hair often loosens and shows less curl with age as hormone levels shift.
Chemical Processing
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Straightening and relaxing hair long-term can alter the natural curl pattern.
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Damage from chemicals can potentially loosen texture.
Heat Styling
- Frequent heat tool use can damage bonds in the hair that may loosen the natural coil shape.
Hair Length & Weight
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The weight of longer hair will “pull” the curls straighter.
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Shorter hair often shows more of its natural curl pattern.
As you can see, many influences intersect to produce variations in natural hair texture among Black people. From genetics to environment, no two heads of hair are exactly alike.
Embracing the Range of Black Hair
The wide range of natural hair types and curl patterns among those with African ancestry is something to be celebrated. Too often, European-centric beauty standards in the media and society have put overly tight curls and coils in a negative light.
But the truth is, there is no “good” or “bad” hair texture. Whether you have big loose curls or tight spirals close to the scalp, your natural hair is beautiful.
At Heather Annz Salon, our licensed stylists are experienced at working with all types of textured hair. We’ll help you embrace the gorgeous coils and curls you were born with. Contact us today to book an appointment where you’ll get a customized cut and tips for caring for your hair’s unique needs.
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