If you regularly oil your hair as part of your haircare routine, you may wonder – can I dye my hair with oil in it? Will the oil already on your strands affect the results of your hair dye?
The answer is yes, you can dye hair with oil in it. However, the oil may influence how the color develops and adhere to your locks. Certain oils can act as a barrier, while others can facilitate dye absorption.
Below, we’ll explain everything you need to know about dyeing oiled hair, including:
- How oil impacts hair dye absorption and results
- What types of oils work best with hair dye
- Tips for properly prepping oiled hair before coloring
- When to avoid dyeing over oiled strands
- Aftercare to keep dyed and oiled hair healthy
Does Hair Oil Affect Hair Dye?
Yes, hair oil can affect the outcome of hair dye in a few key ways:
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Barrier effect: Oils create a coating on the cuticle that can block dye from penetrating the inner cortex of the hair. This can lead to patchy color results.
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Porosity effects: Some oils swell the cuticle, allowing better dye absorption, while others seal the cuticle reducing absorption. This alters color intensity.
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Tint effects: Certain oils have a natural tint to them that can mix with dye and alter the final color result.
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Chemical reactions: A few oils contain compounds that can react with hair dye chemicals, impacting how the color develops.
Oils That Work Best With Hair Dye
While no oil is completely free of potential interactions, some work better than others when it comes to dyeing over oiled strands. The best oils include:
Argan Oil
- Allows good dye absorption thanks to swelling effect on cuticle
- Doesn’t leave a residue that hinders dye penetration
- Rich in antioxidants to mitigate dye damage
Coconut Oil
- No natural tint to interfere with color results
- Provides medium swelling for adequate dye absorption
- Imparts shine and softness to counteract drying dye chemicals
Grapeseed Oil
- Lightweight oil won’t block complete dye absorption
- Helps swell cuticle for dye to penetrate cortex
- Rich in linoleic acid to reinforce hair’s protein bonds
Sweet Almond Oil
- Subtly swells cuticle for dye to absorb into cortex
- No staining compounds that could alter color results
- Softening effect helps condition dryness from dye process
In general, look for lightweight, absorbent oils without much natural pigment. Always do a strand test when dyeing oiled hair to preview potential results.
Oils to Avoid Before Dyeing Hair
On the flip side, certain oils are more problematic when it comes to dyeing over oiled strands:
Coconut Oil
- Can block dye absorption due to coating effect on cuticle
- Has a natural yellowish tint that could mix with dye undertones
Olive Oil
- Heavy oil can prevent thorough dye penetration
- Has a greenish tint that could alter color results
Castor Oil
- Extremely thick oil creates strong barrier effect
- Tends to leave an oily residue on strands
Peppermint Oil
- May cause scalp irritation when mixed with dye chemicals
- Could potentially lighten or alter certain dye colors
When working with oils that have barrier effects or natural pigments, it’s best to wash the oil out before applying dye to hair for ideal results.
Tips for Dyeing Oiled Hair
If you don’t want to wash out oil before coloring, follow these tips to minimize issues when dyeing oiled hair:
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Do a strand test to see how oil impacts dye absorption
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Apply oil sparingly focusing just on ends to avoid barrier at roots
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Rinse with very warm water before dyeing to emulsify some of the oil
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Opt for semi-permanent dyes as they don’t fully penetrate the cortex
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Mix oil with dye if using vegetable-based hair color
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Increase developer volume to swell cuticle and allow oil to absorb
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Follow with an apple cider vinegar (ACV) rinse to help seal cuticle
Using the right techniques and doing a patch test can help you achieve good results when dyeing over oiled hair. But heavy oils may still inhibit thorough color absorption in some cases.
When to Avoid Dyeing Over Oiled Hair
While dyeing over light oils can work, there are times when it’s best to avoid applying permanent or semi-permanent hair dye over oiled strands:
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If hair is heavily coated in thick oils like coconut or olive oil
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When dyeing virgin hair for the first time
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If you want to achieve a bold, vivid shade
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When highlight foils won’t adhere due to oils on hair
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If you need even root-to-end gray coverage
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If aiming for a specific outcome like an ash tone on light hair
For important dye jobs where you need predictable results, it’s safest to shampoo out all oils beforehand. Otherwise, oils could lead to splotchy coverage or alter your intended color.
Caring for Hair After Dyeing Oiled Strands
Once you’ve successfully dyed over oiled hair, maintaining the health of your strands requires extra care and hydration.
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Use a weekly clarifying shampoo to prevent oil and dye buildup
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Deep condition after each wash to infuse moisture into hair
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Alternate dyeing sessions with gloss treatments to enhance shine
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Avoid direct heat from blow dryers and irons to prevent damage
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Use a UV protecting spray before going in the sun to prevent fading
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Get regular trims to nix split ends from chemical and oil use
With the proper prep work, technique adjustments, and aftercare, it is possible to safely dye over oiled hair. But heavy oil use can create inconsistencies with permanent dyes. Doing a strand test and consulting a stylist is key if aiming for specific color results.
At Heather Annz Salon, our experts can properly assess your hair and advise if dyeing over oiled strands will work for your desired outcome. We can also recommend customized techniques and aftercare based on your unique hair needs and goals. Contact us today to schedule a consultation!