Having curly hair can seem like both a blessing and a curse. The beautiful natural curl pattern is gorgeous when cared for properly. However, curly hair also comes with its own unique challenges. One of the biggest issues curly haired folks face is brushing their luscious locks. For those with straight hair, brushing is a simple process. But curly hair requires more nuance to avoid damage.
In this comprehensive guide, we will explore the ins and outs of brushing curly hair. You’ll learn techniques to detangle, tools to use, mistakes to avoid, and tips for maintaining your curls. With this knowledge in hand, you can brush your curly mane with confidence!
Why Brushing Curly Hair is Tricky
Brushing curly hair incorrectly can lead to a frizzy, tangled mess. That’s because of the unique structure of curly hair. The curly hair follicle is flat rather than round. This shape causes the strands to have less integrity than straight hair. As a result, curly hair is more fragile and prone to breakage when handled roughly.
The curl pattern also presents some detangling difficulties. Knots and tangles form easily in the bends and kinks of curls. Trying to rip a brush through dry, tangled curly hair will only cause damage.
So brushing requires more care and the proper technique to avoid issues. When done right, it can actually enhance and define curls rather than destroy them.
When to Brush Curly Hair
The number one rule of brushing curly hair: only brush it when wet!
Brushing dry curly hair will disrupt the curl pattern and cause tons of frizz and breakage. You should detangle and style curls while they’re still damp from washing.
Wet hair is more elastic than dry hair. The water helps the strands “slip and slide”, reducing friction. This makes detangling curly hair much easier and safer.
You can brush conditioner through wet curls in the shower to prime them for styling. After washing, apply your favorite leave-in conditioner or curl cream before brushing to further protect the strands.
Only brush dry curly hair very gently to smooth flyaways. Limit this to once a day or less. Never forcefully rip a brush through dry curls!
How Often to Brush Curly Hair
Curly hair should not be brushed daily like straight hair. Too much manipulation will cause damage over time.
A good rule of thumb is to brush curly hair once per wash, when wet. Washing every 3-7 days is ideal for most curl types.
Of course, the optimal frequency depends on your individual hair. Thick, kinky curls may only need brushing once a week. Looser waves can sometimes tolerate a bit more frequent brushing.
Listen to your hair. If it feels tangled and rough, it’s time for a brushing session. If your curls still feel soft and smooth, you can likely go longer without brushing.
Tools for Brushing Curly Hair
Having the right tools for the job will make brushing curly hair much easier! Here are the top recommended tools:
Detangling Brush
A detangling brush is a must for curly hair. Its wide-set bristles gently separate strands to work out knots. The flexible bristles also minimize pulling and friction that can cause breakage.
Look for a detangling brush with rounded-end, seamless bristles. Plastic balls or bulbs on the tips can snag in curls. Bristles made from natural boar hair or nylon work best.
Wide-toothed wooden combs and picks are another good detangling option.
Denman Brush
The Denman brush has a cult following in the curly hair community! Its stiff nylon bristles provide just the right tension to smooth and define curls as you brush.
Start with a wide-toothed Denman for extra gentleness. You can add rows of bristles as your hair adjusts.
Wet Brush
Despite the name, wet brushes are not ideal for detangling curly hair! The flexible intelliFlex??? bristles are ultra gentle, but won’t provide enough tension for curl formation.
However, a wet brush is a good option for smoothing the outer layer of the hair (“canopy”) over your finished style. Avoid over-brushing the underlayers of hair.
Natural Bristle Brush
For a glossy finish, use a natural bristle brush to distribute oils over the outer layer of curls. Go easy and avoid ripping it through the interior hair to prevent frizz.
Boar bristle is the best choice for fine, fragile curls. Those with thick hair can opt for stiffer nylon-boar mixes.
How to Brush Curly Hair: Step-By-Step
Now that you know which tools to use, let’s get into the technique for brushing curly hair properly:
Step 1: Detangle Before Brushing
Before brushing, it’s crucial to thoroughly detangle curly hair. Otherwise, you’ll keep hitting snags and potentially cause damage.
Finger detangling is a good first step. Gently separate strands with your fingers until you hit a knot.
Next, use a wide-toothed comb or detangling brush. Start at the ends and patiently work up towards the scalp.
Apply your favorite detangling product or conditioner for slip. For thick hair, detangle in sections.
Step 2: Wet Hair & Apply Product
Once hair is detangled, wet it down in the shower or with a spray bottle. Then apply a styling product like leave-in conditioner or curl cream.
This will provide lubrication so the brush glides through strands instead of dragging. For extra slip, you can also apply a small amount of oil.
Step 3: Brush in Sections
Part your hair into manageable sections using clips. Work through each section one at a time.
Start brushing from the ends upwards towards your roots. This prevents tugging your strands at the delicate root area.
Be sure to brush all sides of the hair, not just the top outer layer. Smoothly follow the curl pattern – don’t fight against it!
Smaller sections allow you to be gentle and thorough. For thick or dense hair, brushing in quadrants works well.
Step 4: Let Air Dry
After brushing, allow your curls to air dry or gently diffuse them.
Avoid touching or disturbing your hair too much while drying, as this can cause frizz.
Once fully dry, use a natural bristle brush only on the outer layer to smooth flyaways and add shine.
Step 5: Maintain With Leave-In
Over the next few days, avoid brushing dry hair. Use a nourishing leave-in conditioner to finger detangle between washes.
Wet your hands and work the leave-in through your hair, separating strands with your fingers as needed.
This minimizes knotting and maintains moisture to keep curls defined until your next wash day.
Common Brushing Mistakes
By now the theme is clear – gentle handling is crucial when brushing curly hair! Here are common mistakes to avoid:
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Brushing dry hair forcefully – huge frizz and breakage risk!
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Brushing from scalp to ends rather than ends to scalp.
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Not brushing in small sections for control.
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Using a brush with rough bristles rather than flexible, rounded bristles.
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Over-brushing the same area repeatedly.
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Putting excessive tension on the roots.
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Brushing through styling products unevenly.
Tips for Maintaining Curls After Brushing
Here are some pro tips for keeping your curls defined and frizz-free after brushing:
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Use a microfiber towel or t-shirt to gently squeeze excess water from hair. Rubbing creates frizz.
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Avoid touching and disturbing hair as it air dries.
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Use a silk or satin pillowcase at night. Cotton creates friction that destroys curl pattern.
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Refresh styling as needed with a curl reviving spray or foam.
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Sleep in a protective style like a pineapple or loose braids.
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Use sulfate-free, moisturizing shampoos and conditioners.
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Deep condition weekly for added moisture and strength.
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Get regular trims to prevent split ends and knots from forming.
Special Considerations for Brushing by Curl Type
Brushing technique may need to be adjusted based on your curl type:
Type 3 Curls:
- Wide-toothed comb or Denman brush recommended.
- More frequent brushing tolerated – 2-3 times per week.
- Focus on smoothing and clumping curls together.
Type 4 Coils:
- Finger detangling first, followed by wide-tooth comb.
- Bristle brushes too harsh – stick to combs and picks.