Should I Perm or Dye My Hair First?

Deciding between perming or dyeing your hair first can be a tricky choice. Both chemical processes make dramatic changes to the hair structure, so the order you choose impacts the final results. This article will explain the key factors to consider when deciding whether to perm or dye first, along with professional tips for minimizing damage.

How Do Perms and Hair Dye Work?

To understand why order matters, it helps to first look at what each chemical process does to the hair.

Perm Basics

A perm relies on chemicals to break and reform the hair’s inner bonds into a new curly or wavy shape. The steps include:

• Application of reducing agent to break disulfide bonds in hair
• Wrapping hair on rods
• Applying neutralizer to restructure bonds in new curled form

This process leaves the hair quite porous as the cuticle layers are opened up and disrupted.

Hair Dye Basics

Permanent hair dye works by using ammonia or another alkali agent to open the cuticle and allow color molecules to penetrate the inner hair shaft. Developers are mixed with dye to activate it and lighten the base shade.

Semi-permanent and demi-permanent dyes coat the outside of the hair as they can’t penetrate the inner hair. However, they still require some cuticle opening.

Both permanent and semi-permanent dyes leave the cuticle disrupted to some degree.

Order Impacts Results

Now that we understand how perms and dye work, it’s clearer why order matters:

• Perming first leaves hair very porous, which can lead to uneven dye uptake and faster fading.

• Dyeing first creates cuticle disruption, which can interfere with the perm chemicals penetrating properly to reform bonds.

• Doing both together risks over-processing, damage and undesirable results.

Professional stylists recommend leaving 2-4 weeks between perms and dye for best results.

Tips for Perming Before Dyeing

If your priority is achieving a fabulous perm result, it’s best to perm first and wait 2-4 weeks before dyeing. Here are some tips:

• Shampoo hair the morning of perming to remove residues. Towel dry.

• Perm with care to avoid damage. Avoid over-processing with perms.

• Deep condition after perming and avoid heat styling.

• Wait 2-4 weeks for cuticle to settle before dyeing.

• Strand test dye first. Lighten hair if needed before applying new permanent shade.

• Use a demi or semi-permanent shade if hair is fragile after perming.

• Apply dye quickly and evenly. Rinse thoroughly.

• Deep condition after dyeing and minimize heat styling.

Tips for Dyeing Before Perming

If your priority is achieving a rich hair color, opt to dye first and perm 2-4 weeks later. Points to note:

• Shampoo and deep condition hair before dyeing.

• Protect hair from excess damage during dye process. Avoid going too light.

• Rinse dye thoroughly and deep condition after rinsing.

• Wait 2-4 weeks before perming to allow cuticle to recover.

• Assess hair health before perming. Do a test curl first.

• Lighten hair if needed, then perm.

• Neutralize perm fully and deep condition after.

• Avoid heat styling and additional chemical processes for 4-6 weeks.

What to Avoid

To prevent undesirable results, always avoid:

• Perming and dyeing in the same day – high risk of damage.

• Dyeing immediately after a perm – uneven dye uptake likely.

• Perming soon after dyeing – perm solution may not penetrate well.

• Overlapping other chemical processes too closely – increased risk of damage.

• Applying perm solution to already lightened or bleached hair – texture and curl will be very compromised.

Professional vs Home Processes

Seeking professional services can make a significant difference in minimizing damage when both perming and dyeing. Benefits include:

• Strand tests to assess hair viability for chemical processes.

• Professional products designed to be gentler on hair.

• Precise application and development times.

• Neutralizers to stop chemical action thoroughly.

• Bond building additives like Olaplex to repair hair.

• Deep conditioning treatments.

• Aftercare advice tailored to your hair’s needs.

While home kits are cheaper, the risks of over-processing and damage are much higher. Seek professional help if you want both a perm and dye job.

Ideal Time Lapses Between Perm and Dye

Here are the generally recommended time lapses between perming and dyeing:

• Perm to permanent dye: Minimum 2-4 weeks

• Perm to semi-permanent dye: 1 week minimum

• Perm to highlights/bleach: 4-6 weeks minimum

• Dye to perm: 2-4 weeks minimum

The exact time frame should be determined by a strand test for hair porosity and elasticity. More fragile hair needs a longer wait time between processes.

How Long Do Perms Last Before Dyeing?

Traditional perms using strong alkaline waving lotion can last 3-6 months before roots grow out significantly. Digital perms which use lower pH solutions tend to last 8-12 weeks.

No matter what type of perm you get, it’s ideal to wait at least 2 weeks before applying permanent dye. Semi-permanent color or highlights may be possible from 1 week onwards if a porosity strand test shows the hair is suitable.

Things to Keep in Mind

When planning perm and dye services, keep these tips in mind:

• Seek professional help to minimize damage to hair.

• Porosity and elasticity tests help determine ideal wait times.

• Perms should always be done first if getting both services.

• Lighten hair before perming for texture and curl concerns.

• Deep condition before and after chemical processes.

• Wait 2-4 weeks between perm and dye services.

• Add Olaplex to perms and dyes to repair bonds.

• Avoid over-lapping other chemical services too closely.

• Minimize use of heated tools for 4-6 weeks after processes.

Examples of Ideal Service Timelines

To visualize how to properly space out your perm and dye services, here are two ideal general timelines:

Perm and Dye:

• Initial appointment: Perm service.

• 2 weeks later: Deep conditioning treatment.

• 4 weeks later: Strand test then permanent dye service.

• 6 weeks later: Trim and deep conditioning treatment.

Dye and Perm:

• Initial appointment: Permanent dye service.

• 2 weeks later: Deep conditioning treatment.

• 4 weeks later: Strand test then perm service.

• 6 weeks later: Trim and deep conditioning treatment.

The exact timeline will vary based on your hair’s needs and condition. But in general, aim for 2-4 weeks between chemical processes and schedule regular trims and deep conditioning treatments before and after the services.

Solutions for Regrowth Between Services

As your perm or color grows out between services, here are solutions for managing regrowth:

For perm regrowth:

• Spot perm touch-ups just on regrowth areas every 8-12 weeks.

• Transition to a curly style that disguises your new growth.

• Get a full perm repeated every 4-6 months.

For color regrowth:

• Root touch up just the regrowth starting at 4 weeks.

• Lowlights or highlights to blend regrowth into ends.

• Full color repeated every 8-12 weeks.

How Long Does a Perm Last?

Traditional alkaline perms tend to last around 3-6 months before obvious regrowth shows. Digital perms which use a gentler acid pH solution tend to last 2-3 months.

Factors like your natural hair texture, aftercare and how often you wash your hair impact the longevity of your perm:

• Curly or wavy hair holds a perm longer than straight hair.

• Avoiding sulfate shampoos extends the life of perms.

• Washing less frequently helps perms last longer.

• Using alkaline shampoos shortens the life of perms.

• Heat styling takes out perm waves faster.

Getting a touch up on regrowth is recommended once natural texture is visible, around 8-12 weeks for digital perms. Traditional perms may only need a touch up at 6 months.

Summary

When deciding whether to perm or dye your hair first, keep these key points in mind:

• Perming should always be done first if planning both services.

• Wait a minimum 2-4 weeks between perming and dyeing hair.

• Seek professional help to minimize damage to hair.

• Do porosity and elasticity tests to determine ideal time lapses.

• Deep condition before and after chemical services.

• Add bond repairing